Panama

We just returned from a four day trip to Panama City. Upon arrival (six hours later than scheduled due to problems with the plane), we took a "taxi" from the airport to the Hotel on the canal. The forty minute drive provided us with all the adventure we needed. Our driver knew the city well enough to take side routes through the poorer areas at breakneck speed, all the time advising us to avoid this barrio, do not go through here at night, only interrupting his steady patter to honk impatiently at any driver ahead who had the audacity to stop at a red light or stop sign. The speed at which he drove was, more or less, the equivalent to that which was coursing through his system.
We arrived late in the evening, checked in and went to our room which overlooked the canal, literally a stone's throw away from our balcony. The views and sights were wonderful.
On our second day, we took a tour, (3 tourists, one guide and a driver) to an Embera village that was located in a National Park about a ninety minute drive followed by a forty minute boat journey up the Chagres river. The day was remarkable, as we caught a glimpse into the life of the Embera Indians, The tribe is around 15,000, inhabiting the Darien rainforest of Panama. The culture of the tribe was, in the past, defined by their relationship with the river basin far up river in the deep forest.

One of the most fascinating aspects of the peoples is their contribution to the making of modern day pharmaceuticals. With incredible botanical knowledge from living in the rainforest, their expertise has been unrivaled. We had the good fortune to be guided by the healer of the community to his medicinal garden located deeper in the forest from the village. He explained the medicinal properties of the various plants and flowers which are used to treat everything from prostate cancers, STD's, skin disorders, stomach ulcers.
Considered master artisans, the members of the tribe make beautiful baskets and woodcarvings. The Embera people also use woodcarving for everyday life such as making canoes, weapons, paddles, furniture, and so on. However, they now also carve tagua, which is called “vegetable ivory”. From this material, the Indians have made some of the most imaginative art you will ever see, inspired by the animals and plants found within the rainforest.
Taking the tagua, they sand it down and then use various types of lacquer or varnish to create sheen. The tagua is ivory colored with dark brown or gray skin. In addition, the Embera Indians can use natural extracts taken from the earth and plants to create vibrant colors, which are then used to dye the baskets.
There are four communities on the Chagres, each headed by a chief and council. They meet regularly to discuss common issues and concerns and do not adjourn without reaching consensus. The village has a school that the children attend until grade seven, after which they have to travel to attend secondary school. When living outside the village, they are always accompanied by a parent or elder whose role is to guard against the unhealthy excesses of outside life. Undoubtedly, this collision of cultures will pose tremendous challenges for a people striving to maintain its autonomy and uniqueness. The reliance on tourism as an economic asset brings with it all the threats inherent in the transformation of a culture into a commodity, a people whose struggle to maintain its independence is scaffolded by dependence.
The next post will provide an overview of Panama City as we travelled through its original site, walked through the old city and were dwarfed by the skyscrapers which now dominate its landscape as part of its insatiable quest for economic growth.